The A to Z of Print Design

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

Perfecting, preparing and producing your designs for print can be a baffling process. From need-to-know printing methods, like offset and letterpress printing, to perfecting your design techniques for print, such as knowing your spot from your process colors, we take a look at the key terms you need to know.

Swot up on your knowledge of print design with this handy A to Z of essential print design terms, and pick up some helpful tips along the way!

A

acrobat

Acrobat: Software developed by Adobe to allow designers and printers to create, edit and print files in Portable Document Format (PDF) (see also PDF, P, below).

Alignment: Adjusting the alignment of text on your layout can dramatically alter the appearance of your whole design. Experiment with flushing text to the left or right, centering it on the page, justifying large chunks of text to neaten its appearance, or aligning text towards or away from the spine to create a unique, modern look.

B

binding

Balance: Successful print layouts have one thing in common: they are balanced. Juxtaposing dense areas of text against clearer areas of the layout (see White Space, W, below), and drawing the eye to a single key focus on the layout—whether that’s one strong image or a dramatic piece of typography—help to create a sense of balance in the design.

Bevel: Applying an artificial bevel to a graphic element on your computer gives the element a lifted effect. Applying bevelling to print designs has fallen out of favor in recent years, with flat design now being the dominant trend.

Binding: Once your design has been printed, it may need to be bound if the document is made up of multiple pages. There are many options for binding a print document, each of which will be suited to particular products (e.g. paperback and hardback books, brochures, reports). It’s also affected by the weight of the paper and the number of pages. Different sorts of binding include saddle-stitch, velo, fastback, Wir-O, perfect, side-stitch, case, sewn-and-glued, and lay-flat.

Bitmap: Bitmap graphics are made up of a number of tiny pixels, and differ in format from vector graphics (see Vector, V, below). Resizing bitmap graphics can result in a loss of quality and an undesirable pixelated appearance, so you should always be sure to use very high-quality bitmap images in your print designs.

Bleed: A bleed is a space that extends past the edge of the page(s) of your print layout. You should always include a bleed on your print-ready files if any elements (e.g. images, colored backgrounds) on your layout will cross the edge of the page (the trim edge). Once the layout is printed and trimmed, a bleed will minimise the visibility of any slight errors in trimming.

Book: Books are an ancient method of presenting written and visual information. They consist of multiple pages, bound along the inside edge, and encased in a cover. Bibles were among the first ever printed books produced in Europe, after Johannes Gutenberg introduced the wooden printing press to Germany in the 15th Century. Today, books are available in many different sizes and formats, including paperback (a more recent, inexpensive format, in use since the 19th Century) and hardback.

Brief: A clear, logical client brief is essential to pin down before you begin your print design. Coax the client into providing a brief that is to-the-point and covers all bases (to prevent any disputes later down the line!) by providing them with a template for the brief that asks specific questions about their hopes for the end result.

Brochure: Brochures are usually used to communicate information about a company’s services, ethos or products. They differ from flyers (see Flyers, F, below) in that they are usually printed on thicker, glossier paper and they may be folded (see Fold, F, below) or bound (see Binding, B, above).

Budget: Be sure to know your printing budget before you begin a print design. Variations in color use, paper finish and weight, number of pages, print volume, delivery, and special effects like foiling and die cutting will all have a direct impact on the cost of completing the print job. Pin down your allocated budget to help shape your design decisions before you begin!

C

CMYK

Client: Any print design project will involve a minimum of three parties: the client, the designer (you!) and the printer. While you should feel confident in your own abilities to meet the demands of the brief, you should be sure to keep your client involved at vital stages of the print design process, particularly during the budget negotiations, at the draft approval stage, and to seek approval of print proofs (see Proofing, P, below). Most importantly, you should never send anything to print without seeking the client’s sign-off for the job. Ignore this at your peril!

CMYK: CMYK refers to the four inks that are used in four-color printing: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key (Black). Each color in your print design will be rendered through a combination of these four inks. You should always set color in your print designs in CMYK, not RGB, which is only suitable for layouts that will be rendered digitally online or on screen.

Color: Your print layouts will be rendered in color, even if that only involves application of black ink on the page. You should render color in CMYK (see above) to ensure the best printed result. But you can also apply spot colors (see Spot Colors, S, below) to your design if appropriate. It is common that the color you see on screen will differ from how the color appears in print. To minimise this difference, you can calibrate your screen.

Commercial Printing: You can send your print-ready files to a commercial printer, who can offer digital and traditional printing services. You can arrange to review proofs through a commercial printer, and also arrange for post-printing services (e.g. folding, binding, delivery, etc.) through the print shop or to be sent on to a recommended specialist trader.

Communication: The end result of the print design process should be effective visual communication. Designing for print is like copywriting, but in a visual medium. Your final design should be effective at communicating a message to the viewer. This means you should design for print with the viewer in mind at all times. It’s all well and good designing something you love, but if it fails to communicate with the relevant audience, the design has ultimately failed.

Copies: Unless you’re producing a one-off bespoke print product, it’s likely you will want to have several copies of your item printed. High-volume print runs are better value than low-volume runs, and you should aim to have an accurate estimate of the number of copies needed—subsequent print runs of a product you have already had printed can be time-consuming and costly.

Copy Shops: A copy shop is the right place to go when you want lower volumes of your document produced at short notice. Choices in things like paper weight and finish may be more limited than if you were to go through a commercial printer (see above).

Cover: Bound books, whether hardback or paperback, will need a separate cover consisting of front, back and spine, designed, exported and sent to the printer as a separate file to the inside pages. Pick up some tips for creating your own book cover designs from this Tuts+ tutorial.

Creativity: Even though you need to keep some print design rules in mind, such as sticking to a basic grid (see Grid, G, below) and maintaining balance (see Balance, B, above) in your layout, you shouldn’t let these limit your creativity. Print design is the perfect medium for showcasing exceptionally creative ideas and concepts. The print poster is a medium with a famous tradition of pushing creative boundaries. Check out advertising posters from the 20th and 21st Centuries to get your creative juices flowing!

D

Die

Deadline: Setting a realistic deadline that allows you to calmly move through each stage of your planned schedule (see Schedule, S, below) is an essential step towards a successful print project. Talk to your printer to get a realistic timeline for printing, before negotiating a final delivery deadline with your client.

Debossing: The process of sinking a relief image into paper; the result will appear raised on the reversed side of the design (see also Embossing, E, below).

Delivery: Once your design is printed and post-produced (e.g. folded, bound, etc.), it will need to be delivered to the client’s address. Some designers prefer to have the delivery sent first to their own address, allowing a window to check out the final product, before arranging delivery to the client. Either way, you should allow adequate time in your schedule (see Schedule, S, below) to accommodate for delivery.

Die: A die is a specially made tool for cutting or shaping paper, card or board in a press. A bit like a mould, a die is usually custom-made by the printer for the specific print project. Therefore, the cost of creating the die may be added to the invoice for the job. You can ask the printer to keep hold of the die for future jobs, or you may want to keep the die on your own premises.

Die-cutting: If you want to have a shape cut into your design, or have a custom edge, your design will need to be cut on a special die-cutting machine. Depending on how sophisticated the die-cutting machine is, a specialist can also cut, emboss or draw using the machine.

Digitization: Most commercial printers now use digital printing to produce print products. Instead of needing to produce printing plates for more traditional offset printing (see Offset Printing, O, below), digital printing works straight from digitally-generated files. Generally, digital printing is quicker and less labor-intensive than traditional printing methods.

Duotone: Duotone is a generic term for describing multitone printing, using two (Duotone), three (Tritone) or four (Quadtone) inks.

E

Embossing

Embossing: The process of creating raised relief images on paper. Embossing is a separate stage of the production process, and is achieved using a die (see also Die, and Debossing, both D, above).

F

Foil

File Format: You should export your print design file to a suitable format for sending on to the printer. Most printers will normally ask you to provide the file in a print-ready PDF (see PDF, P, below) format, or as native Creative Suite files (e.g. .psd, .ai, .indd). Some vector formats (e.g. EPS) or bitmap formats (e.g. TIFF) may also be suitable.

Flyer: A flyer is a single-page, inexpensively produced paper advertisement, often used for on-street or postal distribution.

Foil: Foil stamping is the process of applying metallic pigment, or foil, to a printed item. A heated die is used to apply the foil (usually in gold or silver, but numerous other options are available, such as pastels), and this is often paired with embossing (see Embossing, E, above) to enhance the effect.

Fold: Many print documents, such as brochures, booklets and menus, will need to be folded after printing. Printers normally offer this service as part of the print process, but note that folded items may be more expensive and time-consuming to produce.

Four-Color Black: Black is actually made up of a combination of four CMYK inks, Four-Color Black. This means there are variants of black: C=0 M=0 Y=0 K=100 actually results in a less rich black, and may appear more grey when printed. Up your CMYK percentages to something like C=40 M=30 Y=30 K=100 to create a ‘rich black’.

G

Grid

Geometric Layouts: When first drafting a print layout, try to think of the layout in terms of a series of geometric shapes. Headings can be blocked out in rectangles, while other key elements (such as images and body text) could be rendered in circles, triangles, squares, or slim rectangular columns. Drawing a rough plan of the layout using simple shapes can be helpful for assessing how balanced (see Balance, B, above) the layout will be.

Grid: A grid is made up of intersecting vertical and horizontal lines on your layout that help structure the content of your design. The grid lines won’t be visible on the final printed product, only on your working files. A grid helps to promote balance (see Balance, B, above) in your print layout.

I

Invoice

‘In-House’ (or Desktop) Printing: If you don’t need to print many copies of your design, and are not too concerned with seeking professional printing advice, creating custom (or large) sizes, optimising color, or using different paper weights or finishes, then feel free to print on an in-house, desktop inkjet printer. You should only really do this for basic documents that are going to be shared in-house or for printing off drafts. Always go to a professional printer (see Commercial Printing, C, above) to produce high-quality prints of your designs.

Invoice: A copy shop (see C, above) may ask for payment up-front on receipt of goods, but a commercial printer is more likely to invoice you for the cost of the print job on delivery. There will then normally be around 28 days in which you are expected to process the payment. Be sure to acquire a quote (see Quote, Q, below) and to firm up your budget (see B, above) before allowing the printer to go ahead with the job, to avoid any nasty surprises on the invoice.

L

Letterpress

Leading: You can increase the line-spacing (leading) of text on your print design layout to increase legibility and generally make the layout appear more polished, clean and attractive.

Legibility: Print design, as we’ve looked at already, is all about effective communication (see C, above). Even if your design looks attractive, if your typography fails to be clear and readable, your design has ultimately failed. Look at your layout from different distances—if it’s for a book, you don’t want to strain your eyes when close to the page, but for a large-scale poster, text size should be exaggerated to allow you to view the design from some distance away.

Letterpress: Letterpress printing is a traditional relief printing technique, using a press. The process is more time-consuming than digital (see D, above) and offset (see O, below) printing, but arguably produces more attractive results. Letterpress is enjoying a resurgence, as more people rediscover this traditional printing method.

M

Margins

Magazine: Magazines are an ever-popular print medium, and vary widely in subject matter as well as print quality. High-end glossies will be more expensive to produce, as they tend to have a higher page volume and are printed on glossier, heavier paper. Learn how to create your own magazine layout for print here.

Margins: Margins are a really important feature of print design layouts. Aesthetically, they give your design some breathing space, and make designs look polished and professional. From a technical perspective, margins that aren’t very generous can be a nightmare for printers, who will have a hard time trimming the page edge accurately without risking cutting into text or images.

Marks: When you export your print design to a print-ready PDF (see P, below), you will be prompted to include printer’s marks. These marks can be helpful for a printer when processing your document. Marks that you can include are Crop Marks, Bleed Marks, Registration Marks, Color Bars and Page Information.

N

Newspaper

Negative Space: To promote balance (see Balance, B, above) on your layouts, you should think about increasing the amount of white space (see W, below) and possibly negative space in your design. Negative space, the space around and between the boundaries of a shape or image, can create interest in your design while maintaining a minimal feel.

Newspaper: Inexpensive to print, newspapers are a traditional paper format for communicating news and events. Once printed only in monochrome, in more recent decades newspapers have included colored photos and text.

O

Offset

Offset Printing: A traditional and common method of printing, offset printing is a technique where the inked image is ‘offset’ (transferred) from a plate to a rubber blanket, then finally to the printing surface. Offset printing on paper was developed in the USA in the early 20th Century.

Output Specifications: You may be asked to check output specifications for a print job when going through a commercial print house (see Commercial Printing, C, above). This may include information about the job, the client, and delivery options, as well as technical details such as information about separations and proofs.

P

Plates

Package (relevant to Adobe InDesign): If you’re providing a native InDesign file to your printer, you should make sure to package the file first before sending; this groups the InDesign file, image files and font files into one handy folder.

Page: A ‘page’ is a single readable surface in your print document; its content may be linked to other pages, but it exists as a single, isolated page. A single sheet of A4 paper could be transformed into four A5-sized pages when folded down the middle.

Paper: Most print designs will be printed onto some kind of paper, unless you are producing something more specialist, like exhibition materials or outdoor banners. Paper comes in various colors (there are actually hundreds of variations on ‘white’ paper), weights (which is measured in grams per square meter, GSM), coatings and finishes.

PDF: Portable Document Format (PDF); the normally recommended format for providing your print-ready files to the printer. Adobe Acrobat (see A, above) is the software program used to create, edit and manage PDF files.

Planning: Arguably the most important stage of print design is the initial planning stage. This involves receiving and understanding a brief, negotiating a budget, creating a schedule (see S, below) and making contact with a printer to receive a printing timeline and a quote for the job.

Plates: Printing plates are used to transfer your design to paper. Printing plates can be made of metal, plastic, rubber, paper, or other materials. Plates are used in Offset Printing (see O, above).

Preflight: When you have finished creating a layout in InDesign, you should run a preflight to check for errors. Content errors, such as over-running text, will be highlighted in the preflight, as well as technical errors, such as color issues.

Printer: You guessed it—print design will result in having to print your work! You have several different options for printing, including In-House (Desktop) printing (see I, above), Copy Shops (see C, above) or Commercial Printing (see C, above).

Printing Press: A press is a machine used to transfer ink evenly onto paper or cloth. The world’s first printing press was invented in Germany in the 15th Century.

Print Run: A ‘print run’ describes the number of copies of a print product, e.g. a book, magazine, flyer, etc., printed at any one time. High-volume print runs (see Volume, V, below) can be better value than several low-volume runs.

Process Color Printing: A process color is printed using a mix of four process inks: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key (Black) (see CMYK, C, above).

Proofing: You should ask your printer to provide you with a print proof, which is usually a single copy of your printed design, before giving the go-ahead for the full print run. There are many different kinds of proofs and they can involve some or all of the following: proofing text, proofing separations, proofing digital color, blueline proofs, laminate proofs, and press proofs.

Q

Quote

Quote: A commercial printer (see C, above) will ask you about the specifications of your print job and provide you with a quote. You can reduce the size of the quote, or improve its value, by adjusting the volume of the print run (see V, below) or changing the color of your design, e.g. dispensing with spot colors, or printing in Duotone (see D, above).

R

Resolution

Reader’s Spreads: This term describes how a reader would actually view your multi-page document once it’s printed and bound. This differs, however, from how the document is actually printed, which the printer would view as ‘Printer’s Spreads’. You don’t need to worry about setting up your working layout in printer’s spreads—your printer will use additional software to arrange your pages two-up onto larger plates, in printer spread order.

Resolution: You should always use images that are high resolution in your print designs. Low resolution images can appear pixelated or blurry when printed, and should be reserved only for digital design.

Right Brain (and Left Brain): It’s generally accepted that the left side of the brain is associated with logic, rational thought, and verbal reasoning skills. The right side of the brain, by contrast, controls more emotional thought and is more visual. You might feel you fall more on one side than the other, or have a good balance of both.

When designing for print, your task is to present a balanced design that appeals to both more logical, less visual people and also to people who are more likely to connect with a print design in a more emotional sense. This is particularly important to keep in mind when you are designing for advertising print design.

S

Spot color

Schedule: A key part of planning (see P, above) your print design project, setting a schedule for the process from start to finish will keep you feeling calm and organized. From receiving a clear brief, to reviewing drafts and proofs, to signing-off for print and post-production and delivery, allocate a realistic timeline for each stage of the process—and stick to it!

Separations: There are two kinds of separation, both of which determine how color is rendered on your printed document. Process color separation separates a color image into four different ink colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black. These are then printed on top of each other to create a hugely diverse number of colors. Spot color separation (see Spot Colors, below) separates colors that are not to be mixed.

Signature (units) (see also Binding): A signature is a section of paper that makes up part of a whole bound book. All the paper used in a book is divided into a number of signatures and sewn together. The number of paper in a signature can vary, and can depend on the number of pages in the book and the weight (thickness) of the paper.

Size: When creating your design for print, you will work on a page of a size that you have specified in your working program (e.g. Adobe InDesign). There are standard sizes (e.g. A4, A3, US Letter) that can be easily printed on most desktop printers. Custom sizes, or sizes that are particularly small or large, will need to be printed and trimmed by a professional printer.

Slug: A slug is a bit of space that extends beyond the page edge (trim) and bleed of your InDesign document. This is a great little place to put draft notes or instructions if you’re sharing your file with other designers or printers.

Spot Colors: Spot, sometimes termed ‘Solid’, colors, are created by an ink, either pure or mixed, that is printed on a single print run. Pantone colors are spot colors, and the final printed color result is usually more predictable than process colors (see Process Color Printing, P, above). You should be aware that including spot colors in your layouts can make the print job more expensive, due to the additional print run needed to print the color.

Spread: A set of two facing pages in a multi-page print document. (See also Page, P, above).

Symmetry: Print layouts generally fall into two categories: symmetrical or asymmetrical. Each has its own sort of appeal, with asymmetrical layouts creating interest for the eye, while symmetrical layouts tend to emphasise the perfection of a design, which has a calming effect on the eye.

T

Tint

Tint: A tint is a lightened version of a color, which is created by mixing the color with white.

Trapping: Printers developed the technique of trapping, adjusting areas where two distinct, adjacent colors meet, so that press misregistration would not result in any white spaces.

Trim: The edge of your page is also termed the ‘trim’ edge. This is the line along which your final printed design will be cut, or trimmed.

Typography: Effective and legible (see Legible, L, above) typography can really lift your print design. Typography is the arrangement of type to make it appear attractive and uniform.

V

Volume

Vector: Vector graphics are made up of scalable objects, and as a result will not lose their quality if resized. Vector graphics are a great choice for ensuring your printed layout appears sharp and in high resolution (see Resolution, R, above).

Volume: A high-volume print run can be much better value for money than a limited print run. Discuss your expected volume with your printer—you may find that the difference in printing a few hundred extra copies is relatively minimal once you’re in the high-volume numbers. (See also Copies, C, above).

W

Weight

Weight: Different kinds of paper (see P, above) have different weights, measured in GSM (grams per square meter). The weight effects how thick, or dense, the paper feels. Paper with a low GSM tends to be on the less expensive side, and you may be able to see the reverse printed side through the paper more easily. Papers with a high GSM tend to feel more robust and luxurious.

White Space: To promote balance (see Balance, B, above) in your print designs, try incorporating more white space into your layouts. White space doesn’t have to be white—it just has to be empty, to give the other elements on the page more breathing space.

Note on Fonts

To imitate the letterpress-style look of the images used throughout this article, download these beautiful free fonts: Matiz, and the decorative glyph font Adhesive Nr. Seven.

There’s More Than One Way to Skin a Cat in Vector

It’s a common occurrence when you’re reading a tutorial that probably matches or is easier than your skill set and you think, “That’s not how I’d do it.” I know this has happened to me several times. I go with the tutorial, though, because I know that in vector, there is more than one way to do things, and perhaps someone else’s workflow may expose me to other techniques I hadn’t considered.

There’s a phrase in the UK that goes: “There’s more than one way to skin a cat.” OK, it sounds foul, but it basically means there is more than one way to do something and achieve the same result. This is the basis of today’s tutorial.

It all started when I was in the back garden and I was looking for inspiration for a new article… and, well, it did come up, and that was 9 Tips and Tricks to Render Anything in Vector. The premise of the article was to show people how to get into the mindset of seeing in vector.

I decided to test myself and look for things I’d render in vector and how I’d go about it, and my eyes were drawn to a very vectorable thing… a garden fence.

A curved garden fence

I want you, the novice or the expert vector artist, to take a beat and imagine how you’d render that fence in vector. How would you start? What tools would you use? I can place a bet that not everyone would construct it the same way.

To make things a bit easier, let’s remove the background, foreground and perspective, and look at it in a simple way as a stock image from PhotoDune.

Stock image of a fence

So let’s imagine we’re aiming for this end result… but let’s remove all colour and think of it even more simply as a silhouette.

Silhouette of a fence

I’m going to go over a few ways in which you could render it in vector. For each method, I’ll explain how you’d do it, list the pros and cons, and give examples of when you might opt for that method.

1. The Image Trace Method

Step 1

I’ve opened the black and white stock image in Adobe Illustrator and then run Image Trace with the following settings.

Apply Image Trace

Step 2

As an optional step, you could click on Expand to turn the Image Trace into a vector path. You could then recolour, should you require it. And you’re done.

The fence created using Image Trace

Rating the Image Trace Method

Pros

  • Super quick: took less than a minute, even after playing with settings.

Cons

  • Despite playing with the settings, I couldn’t find a way to make all of the edges straight. So although it’s an accurate representation of the JPG, it’s perhaps not the most clean-looking end result.
  • Quite simply, Image Tracing an image feels dirty… well at least for me!

When Would You Opt for this Method?

  • When the fence is a small detail of your design, perhaps something in the background
  • When you need to present something in minutes and quality isn’t an issue

2. The Pen Tool Method

Step 1

With Smart Guides (Control-U) enabled, use the Pen Tool (P) to trace around the first set of vertical planks. This will give you 90-degree corners where required and help you line up the points accurately.

Trace around the image using the Pen Tool

Step 2

When the first group is complete, select them all and then with the Selection Tool (V), hold Alt and move your first group over to the next place to duplicate it.

Duplicate the first group

Step 3

Then by pressing Control-D, you can duplicate your last action to accurately place your third group.

Duplicate the third group

Step 4

Use the Pen Tool (P) to draw the top vertical plank. Then using the Selection Tool (V) while holding Alt, duplicate it to the bottom plank.

Create the top and bottom planks

Step 5

As a final step, but not completely necessary, you could use the Pathfinder panel > Unite to combine all the shapes together. And you’re done.

Finished fence vector illustration using the Pen Tool

Rating the Pen Tool Method

Pros

  • Straight edges are created throughout.
  • Points are accurately placed due to Smart Guides.
  • It took longer than the Image Trace method, perhaps five minutes, but this is still relatively quick for a fence silhouette.
  • As the shapes are all straight sides, you don’t need to be a Pen Tool master, as you don’t need to play with handle bars!

Cons

  • If you’re not careful with Smart Guides, you may misclick a point and would have to undo or use the Direct Selection Tool to adjust your points.
  • Spaces between the planks are not equally spaced.

When Would You Opt for this Method?

  • When the fence is a small detail of your design, perhaps something in the background
  • When you need to present something in a short amount of time and quality isn’t an issue

3. The Blend & Clipping Mask Method

Step 1

Again with Smart Guides (Control-U) enabled, use the Rectangle Tool (M) to draw the first post. Draw the plank a little higher than the tallest plank.

Draw a rectangle

Step 2

With the Selection Tool (V), Alt-drag the plank to the end of the first set to duplicate it.

Duplicate the rectangle

Step 3

Select both rectangles and create a Blend (Control-Alt-B). While selected, go to Object > Blend > Blend Options and change the Spacing to Specified Steps and the value to 5, as there are five planks between the two you’ve already created.

Create a Blend

Step 4

Use the Pen Tool (P) to create the shape which will trim the top of the edges of the fence. When you’re drawing it, ensure the right side is flush with the next section of the fence. Then select this new shape and your blend and create a Clipping Mask (Control-7).

Use a Clipping Mask

Step 5

With the Selection Tool (V), select the clipping mask group and Alt-drag to duplicate it, keeping the right side edge of the shape flush with the next group. Then use Control-D to duplicate your previous action to create the third group.

Duplicate the clipping mask group

Step 6

To ensure we’ve got the same width, go into the blend group and duplicate one of the planks.

Duplicate a single plank

Step 7

While selected, go to Object > Transform > Rotate and rotate the vertical plank by 90 degrees to make it horizontal. Then, using the Free Transform Tool (E), stretch the shape and put it in the correct place. Use Alt-drag with the Selection Tool (V) to duplicate the shape.

Create the horizontal planks

Step 8

As an additional step, you could use Pathfinder > Unite to combine the shapes, but as is, here is the end result.

The finished fence

Rating the Blend & Clipping Mask Method

Pros

  • Straight edges are created throughout.
  • Rectangles are accurately placed due to Smart Guides.
  • Due to using Blends, the planks are all uniformly shaped and have equal spacing.

Cons

  • A little more time-consuming than the previous methods, perhaps 10-15 minutes.

When Would You Opt for this Method?

  • Due to accuracy, you could use this method in most scenarios.

4. The Pattern Brush Method

Step 1

Create the initial planks using the same method as before, with the Rectangle Tool (M) and Blend (Control-Alt-B). Duplicate one of the planks for use as a horizontal plank for later on.

Create a Blend

Step 2

While selected, go to Object > Expand to expand the blend into fills. With the shapes selected, create a Compound Path (Control-8).

Expand the Blend

Step 3

Create the shape for the section using the Pen Tool (P) and with that and the compound path, use Pathfinder > Intersect to trim the shape.

Use Pathfinder  Intersect

Step 4

Using the duplicate of one of the original rectangles, Rotate it 90 degrees and use the Free Transform Tool (E) to resize the length so it is flush with the first plank of the set, and then the start of the second set as shown below. Then duplicate it using the Selection Tool (V) and Alt-drag.

Create the horizontal planks

Step 5

Select all of your shapes and go into the Brushes panel and select New Brush, then Pattern Brush. I’ve used the default settings below. Because the shape is one colour, I’ve changed the Colorization Method to Tints, should I wish to change the colour of the fence later on.

Create a Pattern Brush

Step 6

Using the Line Segment Tool (/), draw a line and apply your new brush.

Draw a line and apply the brush

And here is the end result from using the brush:

Pattern Brush final

Rating the Pattern Brush Method

Pros

  • Straight edges are created throughout.
  • Rectangles are accurately placed due to Smart Guides.
  • Due to using Blends, the planks are all uniformly shaped and have equal spacing.
  • Can be reapplied with a couple of clicks along a path, should it be required.

Cons

  • A little more time consuming than the previous methods, perhaps 10-15 minutes.
  • It’s not a duplicate of the original image—if you wanted to duplicate the original image you’d have to take it a step further and create a clipping mask, which would add time to the process.

When Would You Opt for this Method?

  • Any time when you need to reapply the fence in any size, length, or colour.

So Which Way Is the Right Way?

There are many methods, and not just the ones I’ve shown you, that you could use to create the fence. I’m sure there are some advanced vector users who will want to point them out in the comments, and I encourage you to do that.

So which is the right way to go about it, given all the methods shown? Well, as with most vector tasks you undertake, it completely depends on the way in which you’re intending to use the graphic. This will dictate which is the most efficient and most appropriate way to render it. Consider the following to decide:

  • How relevant is the element to the entire graphic? Is it a small detail in the background or is it the entire graphic?
  • How much time do you have to create it?
  • Will you need to edit the element in the future?
  • What is the purpose of the graphic? Is it going to be an icon, an illustration, a pattern?

Once you’ve considered those, then you’ll know which is the right way.

How to Create a Daffodil Text Effect for Spring in Adobe Illustrator

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

In the following steps you will learn how to create a daffodil text effect in Adobe Illustrator. For starters you will learn how to set up a simple grid and how to create your own art brush. Using this art brush, the Appearance panel, basic tools, and blending and vector shape building techniques, you will learn how to create the first petal.

Moving on, you will learn how to easily multiply your petal and how to create the middle part of your daffodil, taking full advantage of the Appearance panel. Finally, you will learn how to create the text effect and how to add subtle details.

1. Create a New Document and Set Up a Grid

Hit Control-N to create a new document. Select Pixels from the Units drop-down menu, enter 1000 in the width box and 600 in the height box, and then click on the Advanced button. Select RGB, Screen (72ppi) and make sure that the Align New Objects to Pixel Grid box is unchecked before you click OK.

Enable the Grid (View > Show Grid) and the Snap to Grid (View > Snap to Grid). You will need a grid every 1 px, so simply go to Edit > Preferences > Guides > Grid, and enter 1 in the Gridline every box and 1 in the Subdivisions box. Try not to get discouraged by all that grid—it will make your work easier, and keep in mind that you can easily enable or disable it using the Control-“ keyboard shortcut.

You should also open the Info panel (Window > Info) for a live preview with the size and position of your shapes. Don’t forget to set the unit of measurement to pixels from Edit > Preferences > Units > General. All these options will significantly increase your work speed.

setup grid

2. Create the First Petal

Step 1

Pick the Ellipse Tool (L) and focus on your Toolbar. Remove the color from the stroke and then select the fill and set its color to R=39 G=170 B=225. Move to your artboard and simply create a 20 x 30 px shape. Switch to the Anchor Point Tool (Shift-C), focus on the top side of your shape and simply click on that anchor point. In the end your blue shape should look like in the second image.

blue shape

Step 2

Using the Direct Selection Tool (A), select the top anchor point that makes up your blue shape and simply drag it 5 px up. Switch to the Anchor Point Tool (Shift-C), click on that same anchor point and drag those handles 5 px to the right. In the end your blue shape should look like in the third image.

petal shape

Step 3

Disable the Snap to Grid (Control-‘).

Make sure that your blue shape is selected and go to Object > Path > Offset Path. Enter a -1 px Offset and click OK. Make sure that the resulting shape is selected and make a copy in front (Control-C > Control-F). Select this copy and move it 1 px down using the down arrow button from your keyboard. Reselect both shapes made in this step, open the Pathfinder panel (Window > Pathfinder), and click the Minus Front button.

Make sure that the resulting shape stays selected, replace the existing fill color with a simple white (R=255 G=255 B=255) and then move it 1 px up using the up arrow button from your keyboard.

petal highlight

Step 4

Make sure that your white shape is still selected, focus on the Appearance panel (Window > Appearance) and click on that “Opacity” piece of text to open the Transparency fly-out panel. Simply change the Blending Mode to Soft Light.

petal highlight

Step 5

Enable the Snap to Grid (Control-‘).

Using the Ellipse Tool (L), create a 1 x 3 px shape and make it black (R=0 G=0 B=0). Make sure that this tiny new shape stays selected, open the Brushes panel (Window > Brushes) and click the New Brush button. Check the Art Brush box and click the OK button. Pick a name for your brush, enter all the attributes shown in the following image, make sure that you select Tints from that Method drop-down menu, and then click OK. Now you should be able to see your new art brush inside the Brushes panel.

create art brush

Step 6

Disable the Snap to Grid (Control-‘).

Pick the Brush Tool (B), select your art brush from the Brushes panel, and then focus on the blue shape. Draw a bunch of curvy black paths roughly as shown in the following image. Make sure that all these paths are selected and simply Group them using the Control-G keyboard shortcut.

black brushes

Step 7

Make sure that your group of black paths is still selected, focus on the Appearance panel and change the Blending Mode to Soft Light.

black brushes

Step 8

Pick the Brush Tool (B), reselect your art brush from the Brushes panel, and focus on the blue shape. Draw a bunch of curvy white paths roughly as shown in the following image. Make sure that all these paths are selected and Group them using that same Control-G keyboard shortcut.

white brushes

Step 9

Make sure that your group of white paths is still selected, focus on the Appearance panel, and change the Blending Mode to Soft Light.

white brushes

Step 10

Select your blue shape, focus on the Appearance panel, and replace the existing fill color with the linear gradient shown in the following image.

petal color

Step 11

Make sure that your main shape stays selected, focus on the Appearance panel, and add a second fill using the Add New Fill button. Select this new fill and add the linear gradient shown in the following image. Keep in mind that the yellow zero from the Gradient image stands for Opacity percentage while the blue number stands for Location percentage.

petal color

Step 12

Make sure that your main shape stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel and select the existing stroke. First add the black to white linear gradient shown in the following image. Next, lower its Opacity to 50% and change the Blending Mode to Soft Light. Finally, click that “Stroke” piece of text to open the Stroke fly-out panel. Make sure that the Weight is set to 1 px and then check the Align Stroke to Inside button.

petal stroke

3. Multiply Your Petal

Step 1

Enable the Snap to Grid (Control-‘).

Select all the shapes that make up your first petal and Group them (Control-G). Duplicate this fresh group (Control-C > Control-F), select the copy and drag it 35 px down as shown in the first image. Make sure that your group copy stays selected, and go to Object > Transform > Reflect. Check the Horizontal box and then click the OK button.

second petal

Step 2

Make sure that the two groups that make up your petals are selected and go to Object > Transform > Rotate. Set the Angle at -55 degrees and then click the Copy button. In the end things should look like in the second image.

multiply petal

Step 3

Make sure that the two groups that make up your vertical petals are selected and go again to Object > Transform > Rotate. This time set the Angle to 55 degrees and then click the Copy button. In the end things should look like in the second image.

multiply petal

4. Create the Middle Part of Your Daffodil

Step 1

Using the Ellipse Tool (L), create a 20 px circle, set the fill color to R=231 G=96 B=38, and place it roughly as shown in the following image.

middle part

Step 2

Make sure that your circle stays selected, focus on the Appearance panel, select the existing fill and go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below, click OK and then go to Effect > Path > Offset Path. Enter a 1 px Offset, click OK and go to Effect > Stylize > Inner Glow. Enter the properties shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

middle part first fill

Step 3

Make sure that your circle stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel and add a second fill using that same Add New Fill button.

Select this new fill, set the color to R=255 G=149 B=67, and then go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below, click OK and then go to Effect > Stylize > Inner Glow. Enter the properties shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

middle part second fill

Step 4

Make sure that your circle stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel, and add a third fill using that same Add New Fill button.

Select this new fill, use the radial gradient shown in the following image and then go to Effect > Path > Offset Path. Enter a -2 px Offset, click OK and then go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below, click OK and go to Effect > Stylize > Inner Glow. Enter the properties shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

middle part third fill

Step 5

Make sure that your circle stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel, and add a fourth fill using that same Add New Fill button.

Select this new fill, set the color to R=114 G=73 B=9, and then go to Effect > Path > Offset Path. Enter a -5 px Offset, click OK and then Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below and then click the OK button.

middle part fourth fill

Step 6

Make sure that your circle stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel, and add a fifth fill using that same Add New Fill button.

Select this new fill, set the color to R=194 G=134 B=71, and then go to Effect > Path > Offset Path. Enter a -6 px Offset, click OK and go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below, click OK and go to Effect > Stylize > Inner Glow. Enter the properties shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

middle part fifth fill

Step 7

Make sure that your circle stays selected, keep focusing on the Appearance panel, and add a sixth fill using that same Add New Fill button.

Select this new fill, set the color to R=251 G=224 B=68, and then go to Effect > Path > Offset Path. Enter a -7 px Offset, click OK, and then go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Roughen. Enter the attributes shown below, click OK, and go to Effect > Distort & Transform > Pucker & Bloat. Drag the slider to 50% and then click the OK button.

middle part sixth fill

Step 8

Reselect your circle. Keep focusing on the Appearance panel, make sure that the entire path is selected (simply click on that “Path” piece of text from the top of the panel) and then go to Effect > Stylize > Drop Shadow. Enter the attributes shown in the left window (in the following image), click OK and then add the other two Drop Shadow effects shown below.

middle part shadows

Step 9

Using the Ellipse Tool (L), create a 22 x 33 px shape, make it black, and place it as shown in the first image. Make sure that this new shape stays selected, send it behind your circle using the Control-[ keyboard shortcut, change its Blending Mode to Soft Light and then go to Effect > Stylize > Feather. Enter a 6 px Radius and click OK.

shading

Step 10

Using the Ellipse Tool (L), create a 22 x 28 px shape, make it black, and place it as shown in the first image. Make sure that this new shape stays selected, send it behind your circle using that same Control-[ keyboard shortcut, change its Blending Mode to Soft Light and then go to Effect > Stylize > Feather. Enter a 7 px Radius and then click the OK button.

shading

5. Add the Background and Multiply Your Daffodil

Step 1

Select all the shapes that make up your flower (except the two shapes with the Feather effect made in the last two step) and go to Object > Expand Appearance.

Now, select all the shapes that make up your daffodil and Group them (Control-G). Download the attachment, drag that Grass Background image inside your document, make sure that it covers your entire artboard, and send it to back using the Shift-Control-[ keyboard shortcut. Move to the Layers panel, open the existing layer, and simply lock this image to make sure that you won’t accidentally select/move it.

Check out this short tutorial from Diana Toma if you wish to learn how to create such a nice background or how to make a grass text effect in Illustrator: Quick Tip: How to Create a Vector Grass Text Effect.

background

Step 2

Make four copies of your daffodil group (Control-C > Control-F) and spread the copies roughly as shown in the first image.

Select the first group copy and go to Effect > Warp > Inflate. Enter the attributes shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

multiply daffodil

Step 3

Select the second group copy and go to Effect > Warp > Flag. Enter the attributes shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

multiply daffodil

Step 4

Select the third group copy and go to Effect > Warp > Shell Lower. Enter the attributes shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

multiply daffodil

Step 5

Select the fourth group copy and go to Effect > Warp > Fisheye. Enter the attributes shown in the following image and then click the OK button.

multiply daffodil

Step 6

Duplicate your five daffodils and move the copies down. Now you need to resize these copies. Select one of these groups and focus on the Transform panel (Window > Transform). Check that Constrain Width and Height Proportions button and then simply enter 50 px in the Height box. Select the other four group copies and resize them using the same technique.

Make a third set of group copies and drag them down as shown in the second image. Once again, you need to resize these new groups, only this time enter 40 px in that Height box from the Transform panel.

multiply daffodil

6. Create the Text Effect

Step 1

Pick the Type Tool (T), simply click on your artboard and add your piece of text. Use the Cooper Black font, change the color to R=0 G=113 B=53, and set the size to 170 px and the tracking to 50. Drag this piece of text below the group of shapes that make up your daffodils, and then lock it.

add text

Step 2

Multiply, randomly rotate and spread your daffodils across that piece of text. Also, throw some flowers around the text. Once you’re done, move to the Layers panel and get rid of that locked piece of text.

text effect

Step 3

Disable the Snap to Grid (Control-‘).

Pick the Brush Tool (B), reselect your art brush from the Brushes panel, and add some subtle grass as shown below. Use the four colors mentioned in the following image for these tiny paths.

subtle grass

Step 4

The following effects might challenge your machine, so it would be a good idea to save the work made so far. Reselect all your daffodil groups and add the five Drop Shadow effects (Effect > Stylize > Drop Shadow) shown in the following image.

drop shadow effect

Step 5

Using the Rectangle Tool (M), create a 1000 x 600 px shape and make sure that it covers your entire artboard. Fill this new rectangle with the radial gradient shown in the following image and change its Blending Mode to Overlay. Remember that the yellow zero from the Gradient image stands for Opacity percentage.

shading

Congratulations! You’re Done!

Here is how it should look. I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and can apply these techniques in your future projects.

final product

How to Create Custom Hand and Foot Print Brushes in Adobe Photoshop

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

Hand and foot prints are a fun way to add a human element to a digital design. They are instantly recognizable, yet every one is completely unique. Hand prints are iconic and often symbolize intimate control. Foot prints tend to be seen as representing guidance or travel. Having a set of brushes for these can open up new opportunities for your design work.

Capturing these prints isn’t difficult, and can be a lot of fun, although somewhat messy! In this Quick Tip I will share my technique for creating and capturing fun and usable prints.

1. Create the Practical Hand Prints

While it may seem fairly straightforward, obtaining a good quality hand print with no smudges can be more challenging than expected. Not every medium or surface holds a print well enough to translate into a digital resource. But once the correct combination is found, the process is simple and rewarding.

Step 1

The materials recommended for this project are easily found in any arts and craft store:

  • water soluble ink of any color
  • linoleum block
  • ink roller
  • heavy duty paper or cardstock

I found the lino block, ink, and roller all together in a Block Printing Kit at my local arts and crafts store.

Block Printing Materials

The most important resource: hands and feet! It is possible to use your own for this project, but it is much easier to use an assistant. I found that a pair of eight-year-old daughters are more than happy to help!

Hands and Feet to make the prints

Step 2

Squeeze some of the ink out onto the linoleum block

Ink the block

Use the roller to spread the ink around the block. The intent is to cover the roller with ink, not the block.

spread the ink with the roller

Step 3

Carefully “paint” the hand using the roller. Work to get good coverage inside the cracks of the fingers and slightly around the edges of the palm.

Spread the ink on the hand

Step 4

Firmly press the hand onto the heavy paper. Check to make sure that the tip of each finger is making good contact with the paper surface.

Press the hand onto the paper

Step 5

When the hand is lifted up, the paper will stick to it. Carefully peel the paper from the hand to see the result.

Result of the handprint

To create a fuller print, before peeling the paper off, press on the opposite side of the paper to make sure it contacts the hollow areas of the hand, like the palm and where the fingers connect.

A fuller style hand print

Repeat the process, gathering several shots of various pressures and finger positioning.

2. Create the Practical Foot Prints

The foot prints are captured in much the same way. But there’s the additional challenge of finding some way of getting to the sink to wash the ink off without staining your floors! I will admit that using the foot of a lightweight eight-year old girl made this a rather simple task.

Step 1

Ink the foot in the same way as the hand. Try not to tickle the helpful assistant—they don’t appreciate it!

Ink the sole of the foot

Step 2

Step onto the paper—try to avoid wiggling the foot, as it will smudge the ink.

Step on the paper

Step 3

Peel the paper off the foot and evaluate the print. Our feet don’t have nearly as much fine muscle control as our hands do, so it might take a few tries to some good surface contact with the paper.

Look at that arch

3. Get Creative

Once you’ve got some experience working with the ink, roller, and paper, look around for other items that might generate an interesting print.

Step 1

I thought a shoe print might be a good alternative to the bare footprint. But I didn’t want to ruin the sole of a good shoe with ink, so I chose some footwear that is easy to wash: a snow boot!

das boot

Step 2

Use the same process for inking the bottom of the boot and printing it onto the paper.

Ink on the sole of the boot

Step 3

Evaluate the print and repeat as needed.

Boot Print

4. Going Digital

With several prints to work with, it’s time to clean up the ink (see why it’s important to use water soluble ink?) and spend some quality time with the scanner before transforming these prints into a custom Photoshop Brush.

Step 1

Scan in each print using a high dpi setting. I recommend at least 600 dpi to generate a good high resolution brush. If your scanner has a setting for black and white, use that instead of the color setting.

Scan Screen

Step 2

Open the scanned image in Photoshop. Increase the contrast of the image by going to Image > Adjustments > Levels. Pull the outer handles inwards until the print is a crisp black against a stark white.

Increase Contrast

Step 3

Use a large, soft edged brush with white paint to make certain that the edges are all 100% white.

paint edges white

Step 4

Look closely at the scan and if there are any stray marks, ink drops, splatters, or smears. Paint them out with the same white.

Clean any stray marks up from the scan

Step 5

Use the Rectangular Marquee Tool to create a selection around the print. Then go to Edit > Define Brush Preset. Give the brush a recognizable name and hit OK. Photoshop now adds this brush to your library.

Give the brush a name

5. Use My Brushes

While I fully encourage you to follow along and create your own custom hand and foot print brushes, I realize that not everybody has the time or
opportunity to craft their own brushes. So I’ve provided an
assortment of free custom brushes for you to use!

Hand and Foot Print Brush gallery

Step 1

Download the attached file for this tutorial, HandFootBrushes.abr. Then go to Edit > Presets > Preset Manager. In the Brushes section, use the Load button to navigate to the downloaded file.

Preset Manager

This will add nine new brushes to your Brush Presets library.

Step 2

Go be amazing! Now use your smashing new brushes to produce some digital
artwork with hand and foot prints that you didn’t have before.

Want More?

Can’t get enough custom creative
brushes in Photoshop? Check out my previous tutorials on creating custom brushes for Coffee Rings, Smoke Tendrils, Water Drops, and even Water Splashes! Hungry to learn more about how to use custom
brushes in photo manipulation projects? Check out my profile of courses and tutorials here at Tuts+ and find all that, and much more!

Creating
your own library of digital resources pulled from real-world practical
effects is a skill that will pay off exponentially in the future.
Instead of searching stock sites for interesting textures, try creating
some for yourself! I’d love to see them in the comments below.

Create and Win With Envato Remix!

Envato Remix

We’re running a brand new creative contest for our entire
community across Envato Market, Tuts+ and Envato Studio, and we’d love to see
what you come up with!

Create and Win With Envato Remix!

We want you to create a brand new piece of digital artwork from
an asset we provide you, and we’ve got some awesome prizes to give away! Below is a preview of the vector file you can modify in any way you wish!

Vector of Briany

See our official Envato
Remix contest page
for full details, to post your entry, and to keep
track of all entries as they come in!

How Do I Enter?

  • Use your best creative skills to
    create a unique piece of digital artwork.
  • You may create/submit 1 entry only.
  • Your entry must be a minimum of
    1200 px wide or tall and in JPG format.
  • Before you enter, you must complete
    our registration form
    . This form will ask for your name, your Envato
    Market username, and a valid PayPal email address. The email address must be
    the same one that you use to access your PayPal account
    .
  • Post your entries in the comments
    in our official contest post.
  • Entries must be submitted no later
    than midnight (CST/US) on Sunday, April 12, 2015.
  • See full terms and conditions
    below.

What Can I Win?

We have some amazing prizes up for grabs! A big thank you
to our generous prize sponsors of this event: PayPal have very graciously donated US$250 (deposited into your PayPal account) and we’ve also got Envato
Market credit, some awesome Tuts+ subscriptions, and super useful Envato Studio
credits and discounts to give away!

Grand Prize

  • US$250 PayPal Prize (deposited
    into the winner’s PayPal account)
  • One-year subscription to Tuts+
  • $150 Envato Studio voucher
  • A “Won a Contest“ badge on Envato Market

Runner-up

  • US$100 Envato Market credit
  • Three-month subscription to Tuts+
  • $50 Envato Studio voucher

Third Place

  • US$50 Envato Market credit
  • Three-month subscription to Tuts+
  • 20% discount Envato Studio voucher

Judging

Envato staff will select and announce all winners on Friday,
April 17, 2015 via the Envato Market blog. Judges will be looking for a
combination of creativity, originality, and technical execution.

Terms & Conditions

We’re Envato, the promoter of this competition, and our promo
terms are available on our contest web site
—please read them!

Good luck! We’ll see you and your artwork over on our official contest page!

How to Learn to Draw: Stage Two, Precision

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

You can draw, you know it. You can hold a pencil, you can lead lines, but somehow they don’t want to listen to you. As long as you draw something that doesn’t require precision, something chaotic, it works all right. But any time you try to draw from a reference, the proportions are so off that it’s scary.

Why does it happen? Is something wrong with you? Your eyes are OK, your hand is OK… why can’t you just draw what you see? It looks so easy!

A lot of things that we do in life seem easy only because they’re automatic to us. But if you tried to explain them to someone who’d never done them, you’d understand how complex they are. Just try to focus on your steps when walking!

Automation is great—it lets you do certain things effortlessly and almost magically. However, in order to reach this state, you need to put an effort into it first. When first learning how to drive, there’s so much to focus on that it’s totally overwhelming. But after some practice you’re able to talk and listen to the radio when driving, and you still have enough attention to see that pedestrian.

Professional artists make drawing look easy, but it’s only because it was hard for them earlier in their lives. When you force yourself to draw complicated things over and over again, and they don’t turn out as intended, it’s because you ignore this simple fact—you must learn how to do it in order to do it.

This is the second part of the drawing basics series. In the first part we were learning how to control the tool so that it didn’t disturb your future exercises. If you still have problems with it, don’t start this part before finishing the previous one! It’s very important to do it at your own pace. Come back here when you’re really ready, otherwise you’ll make it harder than it needs to be.

Also, if you’re new to this series and you’re sure you don’t need to practice pure manual skills, read that first part anyway. You’ll find there a very important introduction and general tips about learning.

What There Is to Learn

There are things that you learn consciously, things that are fully explainable. Precise drawing isn’t one of them. It’s one of the “mind skills”, meaning it’s learned by your mind rather than consciously by you. For example, as a child you learned how perspective worked. That’s why now you’re not scared of the world constantly moving and changing size as you move. But do you, consciously, know the rules of perspective?

These “mind skills” are very easy to learn—and very hard at the same time. They’re hard, because you can’t learn them consciously. You can’t read a book about them, and you can’t listen to a lecture, come back home and just know them. You can’t learn them—it’s only your mind that can do it.

And the mind learns best through repetition. That’s the simplicity of this. You just need to practice, and practice a lot, until it starts being automatic. That will be the sign that your mind is grasping it! Easy, isn’t it?

Well, if it were that easy, you would already be a master of copying references. Haven’t you practiced it many times? Your manual skills certainly developed, but your problem with proportions hasn’t been solved. It’s because you were practicing many kinds of exercises at the same time. Even if you progressed at one of them, it wasn’t noticeable because of other mistakes.

This is what this stage is about. I’ll show you simple exercises, each focusing on a slightly different part of the problem. This way you’ll clearly see your progress, and even though these drawings won’t be anything worth admiration, you’ll be able to transfer the skill gained here to your “real” works—not only for copying references, but for everything!

What you need to keep in mind when practicing:

  • Never forget that you’re doing it because you want to. Nobody’s forcing you, and you don’t have an obligation to draw well.
  • It’s perfectly normal when it turns out bad. You’re learning! If you were expecting your drawings to turn out great every time, why would you learn? There’s nothing wrong with the outcome, but with your expectations about it.
  • Each exercise is based on skills gained in the previous one. Therefore, the last ones may be impossible to do before you practice some more. Don’t push yourself—take it easy. Being too ambitious may slow down your progress!
  • It will take time. It doesn’t require much time every day (see the previous part for more info), but it needs to be a constant, regular practice.
  • There may be moments when you feel uncomfortable. This feeling of “mental stretching” is a clear sign that you’re working on a long unused “mind-muscle”. It may be painful, in a weird way, but this is a direct signal that you’re learning something new! Learn to embrace this feeling, and don’t use it as an excuse to do something more pleasant.
  • Take a break from drawing serious things for some time. This way you’ll prevent yourself from being disappointed (if you expect to be much better after one session of exercises), and you’ll have a pleasant surprise when you’re ready.
  • Always start a session with a warm-up, also described in the previous part.
  • Use continuous lines only for small shapes. For drawing in a larger scale, use the “soft lines” described in the previous part.

1. Measure the Distance Between Dots

Let’s start slowly. Draw two dots with a random distance in between. Then draw another dot, trying to use the same distance. Repeat it many times in various directions, and feel free to use diagonal lines, too. Try a different distance every time you do this exercise. The longer the distance, the more challenging the exercise.

Draw dots with the same distance between

This exercise:

  • “warms up” your mind for working with proportions
  • is focused on seeing distance, a base of proportions
  • is extremely simple in construction—there’s only one type of mistake you can make here!
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 1

2. Copy the Length of Lines

Draw a line of random length. Then try to draw it once again under the original. After finishing a column, repeat them on the sides. The lines don’t need to be perfect (mine certainly aren’t!), but if drawing them seems too hard, it’s a sign you haven’t finished the first stage.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 2

This exercise:

  • is not only about seeing distance, but also about replicating it
  • engages your hand, eyes, and mind all together
  • extends the exercises from the first stage about line control
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 3

3. Measure the Distance Between Equal Length Lines

Draw a line of random length, and then draw it once again. Repeat the process, using the same distance that appeared between the first two. The longer the lines and distances, the harder the exercise.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 4

This exercise:

  • is another level of the two previous ones
  • stretches your mind-muscles very intensively, because you’re processing two distances at a time. Don’t let it discourage you!
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 5

4. Draw Crosses: Squares

We’re picking up speed now, so don’t worry if you start losing your breath. The beginning must be hard!

Draw a line of random length, and then cross it in the middle with another line of the same length. “Close” the cross with more lines. The more like a square it looks, the better. Do the same with rotated crosses (45 degrees).

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 6

This exercise:

  • contains a clear indicator of your progress (how squarish the squares are)
  • extends your manual skill by drawing squares
  • introduces you to seeing angles
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 7

5. Draw Stars: Circles

Draw a line of random length. Cross it with a line of the same length, but on a 45 degree angle. Add another one, rotating by another 45 degrees. Do it until you have four lines crossing each other. Close the star with a circle—the more lines touch it, the better.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 8

This exercise:

  • contains a clear indicator of your progress (if all the lines touch the circle)
  • is very complex: combines seeing distance, copying distance, seeing angle, and copying angle
  • extends your manual skill by drawing circles
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 9

6. Copy Squares and Circles

Draw a circle, then a square of similar size below. Copy the circle and square, trying to achieve the same size every time. Remember: if it’s too hard, draw the shapes “softly”, with repeating-overlapping lines.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 10

This exercise:

  • extends your manual skill by drawing circles and squares
  • introduces you to a concept of “general size” (various lengths combined to create a shape)
  • trains your “complex precision”—it’s the first step to copying more complicated shapes
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 11

7. Scale Squares and Circles

Draw a circle, and then draw smaller copies of it. Do the same with squares.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 12

This exercise:

  • extends your manual skill by drawing circles and squares
  • is the first step to scaling the reference
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 13

8. Copy Combined Figures

Time to combine all the skills you are learning into one complex exercise, a simulation of what you’re going to do when drawing from a reference.

Draw a combination of shapes: squares, circles, rectangles, lines. Then copy the figure as accurately as possible.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 14

This exercise:

  • combines all the previously practiced skills
  • is a simulation of 1:1 reference copying
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 15

9. Copy and Scale Combined Figures

Again, draw a combination of various shapes. This time don’t copy it directly; instead, scale all the components at the same degree.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 16

This exercise:

  • combines all the previously practiced skills
  • is a simulation of scaled copying—the case when it’s the easiest to lose proportions
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 17

10. Copy and Rotate Combined Figures

Draw a combination of shapes. Copy all the components, this time rotating them all by the same degree. Be very, very careful!

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 18

This exercise:

  • combines all the previously practiced skills
  • trains you for seeing proportions even in a disturbed reference
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 19

11. Copy, Scale, and Rotate Combined Figures

Draw a combination of shapes. Copy the components, transforming them all in two ways: scaling and rotating. Paradoxically, you may find it easier than the previous exercise!

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 20

This exercise:

  • greatly engages all kinds of mind-muscles
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 21

12. Copy, Scale, and Rotate Smooth Shapes

Let’s finish this session with a very strong accent. Draw a simple, smooth shape. Transform it in all the ways: copy 1:1, scale, rotate, and combine the transformation.

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 22

This exercise:

  • is extremely hard!
  • greatly engages all kinds of mind-muscles
  • is a good final exercise—when all the previous ones become boring, this one will stay challenging
how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 23

Good Job!

That was the second stage. Make sure to stay here for longer—these aren’t easy exercises, and the harder they are for you, the more important it is to work through them. Give yourself as much time as needed, and even more than this!

How can you tell when to stop? When these exercises become boring, but not in an unenjoyable-boring way—rather I-can-do-it-with-my-eyes-closed boring.

The next step after mastering them is to draw from a reference. However, keep in mind it won’t become completely trivial. It depends on how much work you’ve put into these exercises, and what you’ve learned from them.

So, this was about drawing from a reference. Next time we’re going to look into drawing from imagination!

how to draw proportions precise lines copy references 24
You can print this image for a quick reminder of all the exercises

Navratri Wallpaper: Navratri HD Wallpaper Images For Desktop PC

Most probably, you may wanders for alluring and stunning Navratri Wallpaper to embellish your desktop or laptop as well as smartphone too. So, in coming section of this post you will found excellent stunning Navratri Wallpaper that incorporate Goddess Durga Wallpaper, Goddess Lakshmi Wallpaper, Saraswati Wallpaper etc. With the arrival of the pious festival “Navratri”, the demand of Navratri Read More …

The post Navratri Wallpaper: Navratri HD Wallpaper Images For Desktop PC appeared first on Webgranth.

Quick Tip: How to Create a 3D Cursor in Adobe Illustrator

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

In the following steps you will learn how to create a 3D cursor icon in Adobe Illustrator. For starters you will learn how to set up a simple grid and how to create your main shape using basic tools along with the Snap to Grid feature. Next, you’ll give it a 3D feel using the 3D Extrude & Bevel effect. Moving on you will learn how to add color, shading and highlights using the Appearance panel and some basic blending techniques. Finally, you will learn how to easily recolor your entire cursor using only one shape.

1. Create a New Document and Set Up a Grid

Hit Control-N to create a new document. Select Pixels from the Units drop-down menu, enter 600 in the width and height boxes, and then click on the Advanced button. Select RGB, Screen (72ppi) and make sure that the Align New Objects to Pixel Grid box is unchecked before you click OK.

Enable the Grid (View > Show Grid) and the Snap to Grid (View > Snap to Grid). You will need a grid every 1 px, so simply go to Edit > Preferences > Guides > Grid, and enter 1 in the Gridline every box and 1 in the Subdivisions box. Try not to get discouraged by all that grid—it will make your work easier, and keep in mind that you can easily enable or disable it using the Control-“ keyboard shortcut.

You should also open the Info panel (Window > Info) for a live preview with the size and position of your shapes. Do not forget to set the unit of measurement to pixels from Edit > Preferences > Units > General. All these options will significantly increase your work speed.

setup grid

2. Create the Arrow Shape

Step 1

Pick the Rectangle Tool (M) and focus on your Toolbar. Remove the color from the stroke and then select the fill and set its color to R=209 G=211 B=212. Move to your artboard and simply create a 42 x 41 px rectangle—the Snap to Grid should make your work easier.

Make sure that this rectangle stays selected and go to Object > Path > Add Anchor Points. Switch to the Delete Anchor Point Tool (-) and simply click on the four anchor points highlighted in the first image to remove them. This should turn your rectangle into a triangle, as shown in the second image. Focus on the bottom side of your triangle and grab the Direct Selection Tool (A). Select the middle anchor point and drag it 6 px to the right. Once again, the grid and the Snap to Grid feature will come in handy.

create triangle

Step 2

Make sure that your triangle stays selected, keep focusing on the bottom side, grab the Add Anchor Point Tool (+) and add a new anchor point as shown in the first image. Switch to the Direct Selection Tool (A), select the two anchor points highlighted in the second image, and simply drag them 6 px up. In the end things should look like in the third image.

adjust triangle

Step 3

Using the Rectangle Tool (M), create a 12 x 22px shape and place it exactly as shown in the first image. Select this new rectangle along with the other shape, open the Pathfinder panel (Window > Pathfinder) and click the Unite button.

create arrow shape

Step 4

Make sure that your shape is selected and go to Effect > 3D > Extrude & Bevel. Enter all the attributes shown in the following image, check the Draw Hidden Faces box, and then click OK.

3D effect

Step 5

Reselect your shape and go to Object > Expand Appearance. Make sure that the resulting group is selected and simply hit Shift-Control-G twice to Ungroup it.

Using the Selection Tool (V) and the Shift button, select only the visible shapes (highlighted in the first image) and simply hit Control-G to Group them. Keep focusing on the Layers panel and turn off the visibility of your group so that you can have a look at the shapes that lie behind.

Get rid of those darker grey shapes and then select the remaining one and replace the existing fill color with a simple black (R=0 G=0 B=0). Once you’re done you can return to the Layers panel, turn back on the visibility for your group, and select and then Ungroup it using that same Shift-Control-G keyboard shortcut.

expand 3D effect

3. Add Color and Subtle Highlights

Step 1

Select the five shapes that make up the lateral sides of your cursor and make copies in front (Control-C > Control-F). Make sure that only these copies are selected, click the Unite button from the Pathfinder panel, and then hit the Control-8 keyboard shortcut to turn your selected shapes into a simple compound path. Make sure that your compound path is selected and simply replace the existing fill color with R=39 G=170 B=225.

Move to the Layers panel, select your black shape, make a copy in front (Control-C > Control-F) and bring it to front (Shift-Control-]). Make sure that this copy stays selected and focus on the Appearance panel. Remove the color from the fill and then focus on the stroke. Add R=247 G=148 B=30 for the color and increase the Weight to 2 px. With this orange path still selected, go to Object > Path > Outline Stroke.

blue and orange shapes

Step 2

Reselect your blue compound path along with the orange shape and click the Intersect button from the Pathfinder panel. Make sure that the resulting group of shapes is selected and turn it into a new compound path using that same Control-8 keyboard shortcut.

Keep focusing on this orange path, grab the Delete Anchor Point Tool (-) and simply remove the six anchor points highlighted in the second image. In the end your orange compound path should look like in the third image.

orange compound path

Step 3

Make sure that your orange compound path is still selected and move to the Appearance panel. Replace the existing fill color with a simple black and then click that “Opacity” piece of text to open the Transparency fly-out panel. Lower the Opacity to 20% and change the Blending Mode to Soft Light.

subtle shading

Step 4

Select the five shapes that make up the lateral sides of your cursor one by one and simply replace the existing fill colors with the linear gradients indicated in the following image.

gradients lateral sides

Step 5

Select the shape that makes up the top side of your cursor and simply replace the existing fill color with the linear gradient shown in the following image.

gradient top side

Step 6

Reselect the shape that makes up the top side of your cursor and focus on the Appearance panel.

Select the existing stroke, change its Blending Mode to Soft Light and add the linear gradient shown in the following image. Keep in mind that the blue numbers from the Gradient image stand for Location percentage while the yellow ones stand for Opacity percentage. Return to the Appearance panel and click that “Stroke” piece of text to open the Stroke fly-out menu. Make sure that the Weight is set at 1 px and then check the Rounded Join and the Align Stroke to Inside buttons.

stroke top side

4. Add a Subtle Contour Along the Edges of Your Shapes

Step 1

Reselect the six shapes that make up the visible sides of your cursor and duplicate them (Control-C > Control-F). Make sure that only these copies are selected, replace the existing fill attributes with two random shades of blue as shown in the second image, and don’t forget to remove the stroke used for the top shapes.

blue shapes

Step 2

Select the blue shape that makes up the top side of your cursor and make a copy in front (Control-C > Control-F). Select this copy along with the darker blue shape highlighted in the first image, and click the Minus Front button from the Pathfinder panel.

adjust blue shapes

Step 3

Reselect all your blue shapes and focus on the Appearance panel. Remove the fill colors and then add a 1 px black stroke. Once you’re done, Group these shapes (Control-G).

black strokes

Step 4

Make sure that your group is still selected and make a copy in front (Control-C > Control-F). Select this copy and click the Unite button from the Pathfinder panel. Focus on the resulting shape, set the fill color at white, get rid of that black stroke and then use the Delete Anchor Point Tool (-) to remove the anchor point highlighted in the second image. In the end things should look like in the third image.

white mask

Step 5

Reselect the white shape made in the previous step along with your only group, open the Transparency panel (Window > Transparency), and click the Make Mask button, and things should look like in the second image. Keep focusing on the Transparency panel, change the Blending Mode to Soft Light and lower the Opacity to 30%.

mask black strokes

Step 6

Focus on the Layers panel, select the black shape that makes up the bottom side of your cursor, and move to the Appearance panel. Select the existing stroke, make it black, lower its Opacity to 5% and then open that Stroke fly-out panel. Make sure that the Weight is set at 1 px and then check the Round Join and Align Stroke to Outside buttons.

shading stroke

Step 7

Reselect the black shape that makes up the bottom side of your cursor, return to the Appearance panel, make sure that the entire path is selected (simply click the “Path” piece of text from the top side of your panel) and go to Effect > Stylize > Drop Shadow. Enter the attributes shown in the top left window (in the following image), click OK and then add the other three Drop Shadow effects shown in the following image.

shading drop shadow effects

5. Add Shading and Recolor Your Cursor

Step 1

Reselect your masked group and make a copy in front (Control-C > Control-F). Make sure that it stays selected and click the Unite button from the Pathfinder panel. Now, you can use this new shape to easily recolor your entire cursor. Make sure that it stays selected and focus on the Appearance panel. Set the fill color at R=28 G=117 B=188 and then change the Blending Mode to Soft Light.

recolor cursor

Step 2

Feel free to use a different blending mode for this shape that recolors your entire cursor.

recolor cursor

Step 3

You can always adjust the Opacity percentage to increase/decrease the color intensity for the shape that adds color for your cursor.

recolor cursor

Step 4

You can also try to combine two different blending modes.

recolor cursor

Step 5

Finally, don’t hesitate to experiment with different colors.

recolor cursor

Congratulations! You’re Done!

Here is how it should look. I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and can apply these techniques in your future projects.

final product